23. Replace the gearbox oil seals installed in the holes for the wheel drive axle shafts. This oil seal replacement is independent of whether any repair work has been done on the gearbox or not. It's just that when the axle shafts are disconnected from the gearbox, the oil seals standing there, as a rule, are damaged.
24. Replace the O-rings on the drain and filler plugs on the transmission.
25. Replace all self-locking nuts and their washers. The latter are usually replaced when damaged.
The gearbox installation sequence is as follows.
26. Grease a working surface of epiploons of semiaxes of a drive of wheels with universal greasing and insert epiploons into openings. To press in the seals, use a piece of pipe of the appropriate diameter. The seals are pressed flush with the surface of the gearbox housing. When pressing the seals, be careful not to damage them.
27. Lubricate splines of input shaft shank, clutch release bearing sleeve and clutch release lever pins with graphite grease such as Molykote BR2.
28. Make sure the gearbox-to-engine locating pins are in place.
29. Move the clutch release lever back and secure it in this position with a cord or wire so that the release bearing is pressed out when the gearbox is installed.
30. Get the mobile lift with a transmission under the car. Attach a chain or cable to the eye on the box (see illustration 2.22) and raise the gearbox just enough to engage the engine. If there is an appropriate lift, then the same operation can be performed using it, without fixing the box to the chain or cable.
31. Feed the gearbox to the engine so that its input shaft enters the hole on the clutch disc. If the shaft shank does not fit into the hole in the clutch disc, then ask the assistant to turn the V-belt pulley in one direction or another so that the splines of the shaft shank and the clutch disc are aligned. As soon as the slots match, the box should be fully seated.
32. Insert two bolts securing the top of the box to the engine and tighten them with a torque of 35 Nm.
33. Raise the engine and transmission so that the suspension brackets can be installed. Tighten suspension mounting bolts to specification (see section «Engine»).
34. Screw in the bolts securing the lower part of the gearbox to the engine and tighten them with a torque of 45 Nm.
35. Reinstall the shift mechanism or secure the shift cables.
36. Replace the right and left wheel drive axles (see relevant chapter).
37. Reinstall the starter. Tighten the three bolts of its fastening with a torque of 18 Nm.
38. Connect the speedometer flexible shaft, clutch cable, wire «masses» (-) to transmission, reversing light switch wire, speedometer sensor plug (if there), as well as other wires that were disconnected during the removal of the gearbox.
39. Replace the air filter and connect the hoses.
40. Install the battery tray and holder.
41. Install the battery and fasten the wire terminals to the terminals.
42. Fill in gear oil in a transmission.
43. Make sure the drain plug is tight. Screw in the filler plug. The tightening torques of the plugs are specified in the respective specifications.
44. Lower the car on the wheels and tighten the nuts of both drive shafts with a torque of 100 Nm, and then tighten them by 60°. Replace nuts with new ones before installation. When tightening the nuts, the parking brake must be tightened.
45. Tighten the wheel bolts and put on the wheel covers.
46. Carry out a test drive and make sure that the gear changes are carried out without problems.
The gearbox is designed for the entire life of the car. We do not recommend rebuilding the box. In this case, it is better to use a gearbox from the exchange fund, which is available in the workshops. This means that instead of a faulty box, you get a repaired box of the same design that you install on your car. It is only necessary to purchase those parts that are subject to replacement when removing and installing the box.