23. Replace the gearbox oil seals installed in the holes for the wheel drive axle shafts. This replacement of oil seals does not depend on whether any repair work has been carried out on the gearbox or not. It's just that when the axle shafts are disconnected from the gearbox, the seals located there usually get damaged.
24. Replace the sealing rings of the drain and filler plugs on the gearbox.
25. Replace all self-locking nuts and their washers. The latter are usually replaced when damaged.
The sequence of installing the gearbox is as follows.
26. Lubricate the working surface of the axle shaft seals with universal grease and insert the seals into the holes. To press in the seals, use a piece of pipe of the appropriate diameter. The seals are pressed flush with the surface of the gearbox housing. When pressing in the seals, be careful not to damage them.
27. Lubricate the splines of the input shaft end, the clutch release bearing sleeve and the clutch release lever pins with graphite grease, such as Molykote BR2.
28. Make sure the transmission to engine mounting dowel pins are in place.
29. Move the clutch release lever back and secure it in this position with a cord or wire so that the release bearing is pressed back when installing the gearbox.
30. Place the mobile lift with gearbox under the vehicle. Attach a chain or cable to the eye on the box (see illustration 2.22) and lift the gearbox enough so that it can be engaged with the engine. If you have a suitable lift, you can perform the same operation with it, without securing the box to a chain or cable.
31. Move the gearbox towards the engine so that its input shaft enters the hole on the driven clutch disc. If the shaft end does not fit into the hole in the clutch disc, ask an assistant to turn the V-belt pulley in one direction or another so that the splines of the shaft end and the driven clutch disc align. Once the splines are aligned, the box should be seated completely in place.
32. Insert the two bolts securing the top of the box to the engine and tighten them to 35 Nm.
33. Raise the engine and gearbox to allow installation of the suspension brackets. Tighten the suspension mounting bolts to specifications (see section "Engine").
34. Screw in the bolts securing the lower part of the gearbox to the engine and tighten them to a torque of 45 Nm.
35. Reinstall the gear shift mechanism or secure the gear shift cables.
36. Put the right and left wheel drive axles in place (see the relevant chapter).
37. Reinstall the starter. Tighten the three mounting bolts to a torque of 18 Nm.
38. Connect the speedometer flexible shaft, clutch cable, ground (-) wire to the gearbox, reverse light switch wire, speedometer sensor plug (if equipped), and any other wires that were disconnected during gearbox removal.
39. Replace the air filter and connect the hoses.
40. Install the battery tray and holder.
41. Install the battery and secure the wire terminals to the battery terminals.
42. Fill the gearbox with transmission oil.
43. Make sure the drain plug is tightly tightened. Screw in the filler plug. The tightening torques for the plugs are specified in the relevant specifications.
44. Lower the vehicle onto its wheels and tighten the nuts of both drive shafts to a torque of 100 Nm, then turn them an additional 60°. Replace the nuts with new ones before installation. When tightening the nuts, the parking brake must be applied.
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45. Tighten the wheel bolts and put on the wheel covers.
46. Take the vehicle for a test drive and ensure that gear shifting is smooth.
The gearbox is designed for the entire service life of the vehicle. We do not recommend overhauling the gearbox. In this case, it is better to use a gearbox from the exchange stock available in workshops. This means that in exchange for a faulty gearbox, you receive a repaired one of the same design that you install on your car. You only need to purchase those parts that need to be replaced when removing and installing the box.