Engine assembly (Peugeot J5)

When assembling the engine, the following general guidelines must be observed:

• Before assembly, it is necessary to check that all parts are clean and do not contain foreign objects.
• Apply a coat of motor oil to all moving or sliding parts. This should be done just before assembly, and not after the parts have already been assembled, as otherwise the oil supply to the immediate bearing points may be blocked. It is especially important to ensure that the pistons, piston rings and cylinder walls are thoroughly lubricated before assembly.
• Thoroughly clean all parts of the cylinder block if the engine has been completely disassembled. When partially disassembling the engine, do not allow foreign objects to enter the disassembled parts or cavities of the engine. To avoid this, all holes should be either sealed or covered with rags.
• It is best to blow out lubrication channels and holes with compressed air. If compressed air is not available, clean all channels and holes with a wooden stick, but under no circumstances with metal objects. When assembling, be sure to install new seals, gaskets, etc. Under no circumstances should you skimp on these parts or install obviously damaged ones.
• The table of sizes and adjustments shows the wear limits of the main moving parts. If in doubt or if the wear limit is approaching, it is better to replace the part, thereby saving on disassembling the engine in the near future.
• All spare parts should be purchased only from official dealerships, indicating the engine number. Since modernization and, consequently, changes in parts are constantly taking place, only your supplier can provide the necessary spare part.
• Assemble pistons and connecting rods according to the instructions section 16.5.3.
• Insert the connecting rod bearing shells in accordance with the markings in Figure 233 (when reinstalling the old parts). The guide projections of the liners must fit into the slots of the connecting rod holes.

• Insert the main bearing journals into the holes with the lubrication grooves. The guide tabs must fit into the recesses in the bearing holes.
• Place both half washers on each side of bearing #2 (bearing #1 next to the clutch) to adjust the axial play of the crankshaft. The oil grooves on both half washers must face outward. Lubricate the washers thoroughly with engine oil. Figure 234 shows the location of the washers.

• Carefully insert the crankshaft into the bearing shells. The shaft journals must be well lubricated with engine oil. To do this, use an oiler and rub the oil in with your fingers. Do not use a brush to apply the oil.
• Install the bearing caps with the inserted liners (adjusting washers in bearing cap No. 2) in the same order. The bearing caps are numbered and the cap numbers must face the oil filter. Do not install the bearing cover on the flywheel side yet.

After this, check the axial play of the crankshaft as follows:

• Mount the dial indicator on the appropriate stand at the front of the engine and place the measuring rod of the instrument on the surface of the crankshaft counterweight, as shown in Figure 235.

• Press the crankshaft with a screwdriver on one side and set the indicator scale to zero.
• Press on the crankshaft from the other side and read the reading from the dial indicator scale. The measurement result should be between 0.07 and 0.32 mm.
• If the measurement result exceeds 0.32 mm, two larger half washers must be installed. Both washers must be the same thickness. In addition to washers with a nominal thickness of 2.30 mm, washers with thicknesses of 2.35, 2.40, 2.45, and 2.50 mm are also available. To prevent crankshaft misalignment, it is important to install washers of the same thickness.
• When installing the rear bearing cover, a special tool is required to install the cover side seals. Pre-coat the contact surface of the crankcase with the cover with sealing compound.
• Screw two guide strips to the fixture as shown in Figure 236. Tighten the bolts by hand only.

• Hold the two new rubber seals on both sides of the rear bearing cap with a tool. Secure the holder with one bolt to the bearing cap and lubricate the guide rails with engine oil.
• Compress the guide strips with your hand and insert them all together at a slight angle into the cylinder block until the cover is seated. To do this, click on the device.
• Insert both cover bolts and tighten by hand.
• Unscrew the device from the cover and remove it together with the guide strips from the cylinder block.
• Tighten all bearing caps sequentially from the center to the edges with a tightening torque of 70 Nm.
• Screw two bolts into the crankshaft flange (flywheel bolts) and insert a screwdriver between the bolts. To check the free rotation of the crankshaft, turn it with a screwdriver. If the shaft jams, find out the cause before continuing with engine assembly.
• Lubricate the outside of the new oil seal with engine oil and press the oil seal into the rear of the cylinder block. Be careful not to damage the seal.
• Lay out the assembled pistons and connecting rods in the installation order. Apply a clamping band to the first piston and insert it into the cylinder bore, which is well lubricated with engine oil (Figure 237). At the same time, start the connecting rod so that it sits on the crank pin. When reinstalling the old liners, do not mix up their installation locations. After installing the piston, check the position of its recess. Install the piston of the fourth cylinder in the same way.

• Insert the bearing shells into the bearing caps of both installed connecting rods in accordance with the markings. Lubricate the bearing surfaces thoroughly with motor oil. Re-installed liners are placed in the corresponding bearings. Tighten the caps to a torque of 50 Nm.
• Turn the crankshaft until the other two journals are in the lower position and install the two remaining pistons in the described manner. After installation, check again to see if the crankshaft is jamming.
• Install the bearing shield with a new gasket from the front side. Tighten six bolts to 10 Nm.
• When installing the oil pump, place the chain on the oil pump sprocket, install the oil pump and insert the spacer plate from the oil filter side between the pump and the cylinder block, that is, as shown in Figure 229, but in the opposite direction.
• Tighten bolts (1), (2) and (3) in Figure 238 to a tightening torque of 13 Nm. The bolts have different lengths. Bolt (1) is the longest, bolt (3) is the shortest, and bolt (2) is of medium length.

• Using a suitable tool, carefully press the oil seal flush into the bearing shield. To do this, take a rod that would fit against the entire surface of the seal, as shown in Figure 239.

• Install the oil pan with a new gasket onto the engine crankcase. Insert 23 bolts and tighten them evenly in a circle to a tightening torque of 13 Nm.
• Install the flywheel onto the crankshaft. At the same time, turn the flywheel on the crankshaft flange until all holes are aligned. The bolts must be replaced. Lubricate the bolt threads with locking paste. When tightening the bolts, it is necessary to hold the flywheel from turning, as shown in Figure 222. Tighten the bolts evenly to a torque of 50 Nm.
• Place the driven clutch disc into the flywheel and install the clutch basket. The long side of the driven disc hub must face outward. Turn the drive disk until the marks made with a center punch coincide (when reinstalling parts) and screw in the bolts. A centering shaft is required to install the clutch. For more details see. chapter "Clutch". While holding the flywheel as described above, tighten the bolts crosswise to a torque of 22 nm. Check the free entry and withdrawal of the centering rod.

Cylinder head gaskets come in different thicknesses and the required thickness of the gasket to be installed depends on how much the pistons protrude above the cylinder block surface. To determine the required gasket thickness, install the pistons sequentially in their top dead center positions and measure the protrusion of the bottom of each piston above the cylinder block surface. It should be taken into account that the thickness of gaskets on diesel and turbodiesel engines is not the same:

• Place the magnetic dial indicator on a well-cleaned surface of the cylinder block and attach the feeler gauge to the surface near the outer side of the piston. In this position, reset the indicator scale to zero. The measurement process is shown in Figure 240.

• Leave the dial indicator in the same place, and move its measuring probe as close to the middle of the piston as possible. This measurement is performed as shown in Figure 241. Read and record the measurement result.

• Take measurements on the remaining pistons in the same way, recording the measurement results each time.
• The maximum size corresponds to the thickness of the gasket, however, the difference in measurements on any two pistons should not exceed 0.12 mm.

After this, the measured piston protrusions are assessed:

• If the projection value is between 0.54 and 0.65 mm, the gasket thickness should be 1.49 mm on a diesel engine and 1.50 mm on a turbodiesel engine. The diesel engine gasket shown in Figure 242 is splined. The turbodiesel engine gasket has the markings shown in Figure 243. The nominal thickness gasket has a slot on the edge.

• If the projection value is between 0.65 and 0.77 mm, the gasket thickness should be 1.61 mm on a diesel engine and 1.60 mm on a turbodiesel engine. This gasket has two slots on the edge.
• If the projection value is between 0.77 and 0.82 mm, the gasket thickness should be 1.73 mm on a diesel engine and 1.70 mm on a turbodiesel engine. This gasket has three slots on the edge. It should be noted that the turbodiesel engine gaskets have two rows of splines in the location shown in Figure 243.
• To continue assembly, after measuring the piston protrusions, rotate the crankshaft to a position where all pistons are approximately in the middle of the cylinders.
• Check that the centering pin (1) in Fig. 242 is installed in the cylinder block and install the cylinder head following the instructions relevant section. Adjust the valve clearances immediately (see special section).
• Install the water pump with a new gasket and tighten the bolts to 15 Nm.
• Screw both temperature switches into the thermostat housing. The location of the switches is shown in Figure 244.

• Cover the thread of the idle speed increase device capsule (3) in Figure 244 with sealing compound and screw the capsule into the water nipple (30 Nm).
• Place two new gaskets on the thermostat and assemble the connecting housing with the thermostat housing. Secure the thermostat housing to the bore together with the new cylinder head gasket.
• Remove the camshaft sprocket (it should have been installed on the shaft when adjusting the valve clearances) and press in the camshaft seals without damaging them. Lightly lubricate the sealing lips of the oil seals.
• Install the camshaft sprocket. Tighten the middle bolt to 35 Nm. While doing this, hold the sprocket to prevent it from turning. For example, you can insert a rod into the hole in the sprocket and rest it against the cylinder head.
• Install the high pressure fuel pump (see the relevant section).
• Turn the crankshaft, camshaft and high-pressure fuel pump drive pulley until the shaft keys occupy the positions shown in Figure 245.

• Install the high pressure fuel pump sprocket and tighten the bolt in the middle. At the same time, hold the pulley (insert the rod). Tighten the bolt to a torque of 50 Nm. Install the pump pulley mounting plate and tighten the two bolts to a torque of 12 Nm.
• Install the crankshaft timing pulley (without shifting the keys) and drive it completely onto the shaft using the appropriate tube.
• Insert the M8 x 40 bolt used during disassembly into the camshaft sprocket (Figure 225). The bolt enters from the rear into the locking hole and locks the camshaft pulley when the timing belt is applied.
• Lock the high pressure fuel pump toothed pulley in the same way. In this case, the bolts enter the holes (2) and (3). Check the pulley lock.
• After this, the crankshaft needs to be locked. To do this, use a metal rod with a diameter of 8 mm, inserted from the rear of the cylinder block, as shown in Figure 246. The rod then enters the hole in the flywheel and locks it in the desired position. The picture shows a special tool used on Peugeot vehicles.

• Apply the timing belt. First place the belt on the crankshaft timing pulley, then on the rigidly fixed idler pulley in the middle, on the high pressure fuel pump timing pulley, on the camshaft timing pulley, on the tensioner pulley and finally on the water pump pulley. Check the engagement of the timing belt teeth with all toothed pulleys. After this, tension the timing belt according to the instructions section 16.8.
• Adjust the injection position of the high pressure fuel pump according to the instructions relevant section.
• Install the crankshaft belt pulley. Coat the bolt threads with Loctite. Tighten the bolt to 40 Nm and then tighten it an additional 60°. The crankshaft must be locked.
• Screw in the glow plugs and tighten to a torque of 22 Nm. Place the current busbar onto the glow plug contact pins and tighten the nuts to a torque of 4 Nm.
• Screw in the injectors (90 Nm) and connect the injection pipes with union nuts (20 Nm).
• Install the timing belt covers. Use a powerful screwdriver to insert the spring clamp in the middle.
• Install the oil filter and tighten to 14 Nm. Lubricate the filter's rubber ring thoroughly with engine oil beforehand.
• All other work is carried out in reverse order: exhaust manifold 20 Nm, intake manifold 23 Nm.