Table of contents: 2.1.1. Removal and installation of…🠇 2.1.2. Installing the power unit 🠇
2.1.1. Removal and installation of the power unit
The following instructions apply to all engine types.
The engine is pulled out of the engine compartment together with the gearbox, meaning the removed unit is quite heavy. In workshops, a lifting beam is used for this purpose, the chains of which are hooked onto the lifting eyes on the top side of the head.
The lifting eyes are also a special tool and are bolted to the engine. Therefore, some preliminary work is required to suspend the engine on cables or goals. It is important that the crane or pulley used has a load capacity greater than the weight of the engine. The lifting eyes should be screwed in from the water pump side and the clutch side. If the lifting beam is made independently, it must also be strong enough so that it does not sag. You can make your own lifting beam, similar to the one shown in Figure 8.
Figure 8. Lifting beam for removing the power unit. The hooks are hooked onto the lifting eyes on the engine.
When removing the engine, it is necessary to follow the general instructions:
- When removing the power unit, the car's wheels should sag under their own weight, that is, the wishbones should not be raised.
- It is not necessary to drain the oil from the engine and gearbox.
- Do not separate the steering rod ball joints and the front wheel suspension ball joints. To disconnect, it is best to unscrew the bolts securing the ball joints from the steering knuckles.
- The left axle shaft is held in the differential side gear by a retaining ring. A drift is required to remove the axle shaft (see description below).
- The right axle shaft is held in the middle by a support bolted to the cylinder block and secured with a spacer ring. To remove the axle shaft, release the spacer ring and then remove the support.
- The cooling system is filled with antifreeze throughout the year. After installing the engine, fill the cooling system with coolant.
The engine is removed as follows:
- Disconnect the ground wire from the battery. The battery can also be removed as an option.
- Drain the coolant from the cooling system. The drain cock is inserted into the radiator, in addition, the plug from the cylinder block should be unscrewed.
- Place the front of the car on stands. After this, the axle shafts are disconnected from the gearbox.
On the right side
Remove the bolts shown in Figure 9 from the underside of the wheel suspension. These bolts secure the load-bearing ball joints to the steering knuckles. Also unscrew the bolts securing the steering arms to the steering knuckles (top arrows).
Figure 9. The ball joint and steering arm must be turned away from the steering knuckle.
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As shown in Figure 10, insert a drift between the constant velocity joint housing and the gearbox bolt. Once again, ensure the drift is securely inserted and tap the end of the drift with a hammer using gentle blows (arrow 1). Once the axle shaft is felt to be released, tap the drift with a hammer in the direction of the arrow shown on the hammer until the L axle shaft disengages from the gearbox.
Figure 10. Removing the left axle shaft. To release the axle shaft from the gearbox, hit the drift with a hammer first in the direction of the arrow (1), and then in the direction of the arrow (2)
Grasp the control arm as shown in Figure 11 and pull it down while simultaneously pushing the wheel up and out. Pull the axle shaft completely out of the gearbox and place it on the wishbone.
Figure 11. Pull the transverse lever down while simultaneously pushing the wheel outward. At the same time, the axle shaft comes out of the gearbox.
On the right side
- Remove the wishbone and steering knuckle from the steering knuckle in the same manner as described for the left axle shaft.
- Compress the spacer ring with pliers as shown in Figure 12 and press the axle shaft to the side in the direction of the arrow.
- Loosen the nuts (2) in Figure 12 and turn the bolts (1) half a turn to release the outer bearing ring.
- Loosen the three bolts securing the support to the cylinder block.
- Press the wishbone down to release the ball joint from the suspension.
- Grasp the wheel suspension as shown in Figure 13 and push the wheel together with the steering knuckle outward. This releases the three-axis hinge on the inside. Remove the aluminum support and place the axle shaft on the lower control arm.
Figure 12. Releasing the right axle shaft. First, press the spacer ring (on the left) and press the axle shaft in the direction of the arrow. After this, loosen the bolts (1) and nuts (2) as described.
Figure 13. Removing the right axle shaft. Press the wheel outward so that the joint sprocket can be released from the support.
On the gearbox
- Loosen both adjusting nuts on the clutch cable support so that the cable can be pulled out of the clutch release fork.
- Trace the flexible shaft gasket of the speedometer and unscrew the mounting nut. Remove the flexible roller and set it aside.
- Loosen the nut of the rear powertrain mount support bolt directly above the clutch cable and knock out the bolt.
From the rear of the cylinder block
- Unscrew both nuts of the muffler pipe connection. Remove the springs and washers. The connection between the muffler pipe and the exhaust manifold must be tightened in a certain way during installation. Don't lose the springs. Disconnect the water hose from the rear water pipe directly below the muffler pipe. Both connections are shown in Figure 14 (behind the oil pan).
Figure 14. Fastening the muffler pipe to the manifold (1) and the water hose to the tube (2).
Under the hood of the engine compartment
- Unscrew the support on the right side of the engine compartment hood, carefully tilt the hood back and secure it with a cord to the right outside mirror.
- Remove the spare tire, metal mount and air intake duct.
Removal the front fascia of the car
- In accordance with Figure 15, disconnect the wires and connectors of the following consumers: headlights and turn signals, cooling system fan motor, temperature switch on the radiator and ignition coil. Release both lower electric fan fasteners to expose the wiring harness clamps.
Figure 15. Some of the named wire connection locations are located at the indicated locations. - Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses from the engine side, having first released their mounting clamps.
- Disconnect the thin hose from the expansion tank of the cooling system.
- Remove two bolts from the top and two bolts from the bottom of the front trim panel of the vehicle (radiator grilles) and pull the entire assembly forward together with the radiator and radiator fan. Both radiator hoses are simultaneously removed from the fittings on the engine. It is recommended to involve an assistant in this work.
The following work must be performed in the gearbox area:
- Remove the lower shift rod pin.
- Locate the heater inlet and outlet hoses and disconnect them. Also disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose, having first released its fastening.
- Disconnect various wires: the ground wire from the gearbox, the wire for the reverse light switch on the gearbox, the wire for the temperature gauge sensor and another switch on the cylinder head. Disconnect the following connectors as shown in Figure 16 (in the places indicated by arrows). These are: starter wires, alternator wires, oil pressure switch wire and carburetor fuel shut-off valve. Also disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pump.
Figure 16. Front of the engine. The connectors indicated in the text are located in the places indicated by arrows. Removing the power unit
- Connect the already mentioned lifting bracket to the engine. First, unscrew both engine mount bolts on the right side, above the alternator (in the places indicated by arrows in Figure 17), insert the lifting bracket and then retighten the bolts. To avoid damaging the horn, loosen its fastening and turn the horn as far as possible in the direction of the arrow towards the outside of the car.
Figure 17. The lifting bracket is secured on the right side with engine mount bolts.
- Unscrew the upper mounting bolt from the clutch housing on the left side, insert the pry bar and tighten the bolt again.
- Unscrew the upper nut of the rubber support.
- Connect the lifting bracket shown in Figure 8 or a similar device to the lifting lugs using chains. Connect this entire system to a crane or pulley block and lift until the power unit begins to shift.
- Loosen the four upper bolts of the powertrain center mount. Once again, check that all connections are disconnected and lift the power unit, removing it from the engine compartment. Always ensure that connections, wires, pipes, etc. are not caught and that all connections are disconnected.
- After removal, place the power unit on a stand, for example made of wood, and secure it to prevent it from tipping over. After this, inspect the entire power unit for external damage, including any signs of oil leakage, which may indicate the presence of damaged parts. After this, clean the engine from the outside. Cover all sensitive areas.
2.1.2. Installing the power unit
The power unit is installed in reverse order. In this case, it is necessary to follow the following instructions:
- Be sure to replace all self-locking nuts, lock washers and other wearing parts.
- Prepare the engine compartment so that the power unit can be easily inserted into it.
- All loose parts, wires, hoses, etc. must be tied or glued with adhesive tape to the outer walls of the compartment.
- Thoroughly clean the connection areas and check for rust, etc.
- When installing the left axle shaft, ensure that the snap ring on the end of the axle shaft is held in place inside the side gear in the differential. You can check this by twitching the axle shaft.
- As mentioned, the connection between the exhaust pipe and the manifold must be tightened in a certain way. Sealing cones must be lubricated with heat-resistant grease. This is, for example, lubricant "Gripcott-Fett A-F". Other types of lubricant can be found at the service station. Place the springs and washers and tighten the nuts until the springs are compressed to a length of exactly 22 mm. This dimension must be maintained precisely as shown in Figure 18. Only then will a tight seal be ensured.
Figure 18. When tightening the muffler pipe connection nuts, set the dimension X = 22 mm.
- Fill the cooling system with coolant. Be sure to fill only with antifreeze suitable for the installed engine. The filling capacity of the system is approximately 9 liters.
- Connect individual wires in the required places. In this case, you should use Figure 20, which shows the main connection points. When connecting the wires to the ignition coil, do not mix them up.
Figure 19. The clutch pedal is adjusted by moving both nuts at the end of the clutch fork.
- When tightening engine mount fasteners, refer to the tightening torque table at the end of the book.
- Connect the suspension ball joints to the steering knuckles. A more detailed description is given in the section related to front wheel suspension.
- All other work is carried out in reverse order. To check the radiator for leaks, the cooling system should be pressure tested. First of all, check for any fluid leaks at the hose connection points.
- Check the oil level using a dipstick and adjust it if necessary.
- Check for corrosion and secure fastening of the contacts of the wires connected to the battery. Before connecting the wires, lightly lubricate the battery terminals with Vaseline.
- During a short test drive, check the gear shifting and clutch operation.
