Note: Before starting work, please read the safety precautions described in paragraph "Safety first!" and in paragraph 1 this chapter.
1. If the starter does not work when the ignition key is turned to the appropriate position, this may be due to the following factors:
- a) The engine immobilizer is faulty.
- b) The battery is faulty.
- c) The electrical connections between the ignition switch, traction electromagnet, battery and starter are not capable of transmitting the required current from the battery through the starter to ground.
- d) The traction electromagnet is faulty,
- d) Mechanical or electrical failure of the starter.
2. To check the battery, turn on the headlights. If after a few seconds they become dim, this indicates that the battery is discharged - recharge it (see paragraph 3) or replace. If the headlights are bright, turn the ignition switch to the start position and observe the headlights. If they dim, this indicates that current is reaching the starter, and therefore the fault must lie in the starter. If the headlights continue to burn brightly (and there is no click from the starter solenoid), this means that the fault lies in the electrical circuit or in the electromagnet (see the following points). If the starter turns slowly when turned on, and the battery is in good condition, this indicates either a faulty starter or significant resistance somewhere in the electrical circuit.
3. If you suspect a fault in the electrical circuit, disconnect the battery cables (including the ground wire going to the body), starter/solenoid wiring and the engine/gearbox ground bus, which is located on the gearbox housing (figure 10.3). Clean the contacts thoroughly and reconnect the wires and wiring. Using a voltmeter or test light, ensure that full battery voltage is being applied to the positive terminal of the starter. Check the quality of grounding. Apply petroleum jelly to the battery terminals to prevent corrosion. Corrosion in connections is one of the most common causes of failures in electrical systems.
Figure 10.3. Engine/gearbox ground bus (marked with an arrow)
4. If the battery and all connections are in good condition, check the electrical circuit by disconnecting the wire from the traction solenoid terminal. Connect a voltmeter or test lamp between the end of the wire and a good "ground" point (such as the negative terminal of a battery), and check if the wire is live when the ignition switch is turned to the start position. If everything is ok, the electrical circuit is normal. If not, the wiring can be checked as described in chapter 12.
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5. The solenoid contacts can be checked by connecting a voltmeter or test lamp between the terminal that connects the positive battery cable to the starter solenoid and ground. When the ignition switch is turned to the start position, the voltmeter should show voltage or the test lamp should light (depending on what is used). If there is no reading or the lamp does not light, the electromagnet is faulty and must be replaced.
6. If it is proven that the electrical circuit and the electromagnet are normal, the fault must lie in the starter itself. You can give the starter to a specialist for repair. But first, estimate the cost of spare parts, as it may be cheaper to buy a new or refurbished starter on an exchange basis.
