Diagnostics of electrical equipment faults (Peugeot 305)

The starter does not turn the engine

• The battery is dead
• The contacts on the battery terminals have become loose or corroded
• The starter electrical contacts are loose or corroded
• Open in solenoid wiring
• The ignition/starter switch is faulty
• Solenoid faulty
• Starter faulty

The starter turns the engine slowly

• The battery is discharged or faulty
• The contacts on the battery terminals have become loose or corroded
• The starter electrical contacts are loose or corroded
• Internal starter failure

The starter works but does not turn the engine

• The lever that moves the starter pinion is incorrectly adjusted
• The starter pinion or flywheel ring gear is damaged

The starter is noisy or runs unevenly

• The starter mounting bolts have come loose
• The starter pinion or flywheel ring gear teeth are worn or damaged

The generator does not hold a charge

• The contacts on the battery terminals have become loose or corroded
• Low electrolyte level in the battery
• The generator does not charge the battery
• The alternator drive belt is slipping or damaged
• The battery is losing charge due to a short circuit (isolate the battery and check if it will hold a charge)
• Internal battery failure
• The generator or voltage regulator is faulty

The low battery warning light comes on when the engine is running

• The alternator drive belt is slipping or damaged
• The generator or voltage regulator is faulty

The low battery warning light does not come on when the ignition is turned on

• The light bulb burned out
• The lamp socket or printed circuit is damaged
• Break in the wiring
• The generator or voltage regulator is faulty

The fuel gauge or coolant temperature gauge does not show any readings

• Break in the wiring
• Fuse No. 4 has blown (other circuits protected by this fuse do not work either)
• The indicator itself or its sensor is faulty (ground the sensor wire with the ignition on - if the indicator needle reaches the maximum, then the sensor is faulty; if the indicator still does not give readings, the indicator is faulty or there is a break in the wiring)

The fuel gauge or coolant temperature gauge is constantly at maximum

• The wire hit the "ground"
• The sensor is faulty

The exterior lights do not turn on

• The lamp(s) burned out
• The fuse has blown (check other circuits protected by this fuse)
• Break in the wiring
• The ground wire has come loose or its contact is corroded
• The combination light switch is faulty

The exterior lights are very dim

• The battery is dead
• The ground wire has come loose or its contact is corroded
• The wrong rated lamps were installed
• The lamps began to work poorly over time
• The reflectors/glasses of the headlights are dirty

The turn signals don't work

• The light bulb burned out (the pointer doesn't work on only one side)
• The light switch is faulty, disconnected, or poorly grounded (the signs are not working on both sides)
• The turn signal switch is faulty

One of the components of the electrical system is not working

• The fuse has blown (check other circuits protected by this fuse)
• Break in the wiring
• The multi-pin connector has become disconnected or one of its contacts is corroded
• The switch is faulty
• Break in the ground wire

For diagnostics of windshield wiper and horn faults, see respectively section 27 and section 30.