Table of contents: Removal 🠇 Preparing for installation 🠇 Selecting a gasket 🠇 Inspection of cylinder head bolts 🠇 Installation 🠇
Note: This is a complex procedure, and you should carefully read the contents of this paragraph before starting. To facilitate installation, mark the installation position of the corresponding brackets and the routing of hoses, wires and cables before removal.
Removal
1. Disconnect the ground cable from the battery (see "Disconnecting the battery").
2. Drain the coolant from the cooling system as described in chapter 1B.
3. Remove the intake and exhaust manifolds as described in chapter 4B.
4. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the vacuum hose from the brake system vacuum pump (figure 13.4).
Figure 13.4. Disconnecting the vacuum hose from the brake system vacuum pump
5. Disconnect and remove the fuel injector return hoses (figure 13.5).
Figure 13.5. Disconnecting the fuel injector return hose
6. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel injectors and the high-pressure fuel pump and remove the fuel lines as described in chapter 4B.
7. Loosen the nut and disconnect the power wire from the corresponding glow plug. Remove the washers.
8. Disconnect the coolant hose from the rear of the cylinder head on the left side (figure 13.8).
Figure 13.8. Disconnecting the coolant hose (marked with an arrow) from the rear of the cylinder head
9. Disconnect the small coolant hose from the front of the cylinder head on the timing belt side (figure 13.9).
Figure 13.9. Disconnecting the coolant hose (marked with an arrow) from the front of the cylinder head
10. Release the return fuel hose from the brackets on the cylinder head and move it to the side (figure 13.10).
Figure 13.10. Release the return fuel hose from the corresponding brackets
11. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the high-pressure fuel pump (if necessary, refer to chapter 4B) and move the cable away from the cylinder head.
12. Remove the fuel filter/thermostat housing as described in chapter 3.
13. Remove the nut or stud securing the coolant hose bracket and engine rigging bracket to the cylinder head on the transmission side.
14. Remove the camshaft timing pulley as described in paragraph 8.
15. Remove the timing belt tensioner and the right engine mount bracket as described in paragraph 9.
16. Remove the timing belt idler pulley as described in paragraph 10.
17. Remove the bolt securing the front engine plate to the high pressure fuel pump support bracket.
18. Loosen the nut and remove the bolt securing the engine front plate and generator support bracket to the high pressure fuel pump support bracket, and then remove the engine front plate.
19. Gradually loosen the cylinder head mounting bolts, working in the reverse order to that shown in the figure (figure 13.37).
20. Remove the bolts and spacers (figure 13.20).
Figure 13.20. Unscrewing the cylinder head mounting bolt and removing the spacer
21. Separate the cylinder head from the cylinder block and the dowel pin by rocking it. The special Peugeot/Citroen tool for this procedure consists of two metal rods with the ends bent at right angles (figure 13.21). Do not pry with improvised levers inserted between the mating surfaces of the head and cylinder block, as this may result in damage to the gasket surfaces.
Figure 13.21. Removing the cylinder head using bent rods
22. Remove the cylinder head from the block and remove the gasket (figure 13.22).
Figure 13.22. Removing the cylinder head
Preparing for installation
23. Before installing the cylinder head, thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and cylinder block/crankcase. The manufacturer recommends using a special cleaning agent for this purpose, but an acceptable result in removing all traces of gasket and carbon deposits can be achieved using a hard plastic or wooden scraper. The same method can be used to clean piston crowns. Be extremely careful not to scratch or otherwise damage the mating surfaces of the cylinder block and cylinder head when cleaning, as the aluminum alloy can be easily damaged. Then make sure that carbon deposits do not get into the lubrication channels and cooling system channels. This is especially important for the lubrication system, as carbon deposits can block the supply of oil to engine components. Use tape and paper to seal the oil passages, coolant passages and bolt holes in the engine block/parter. To prevent the removed carbon deposits from getting into the gaps between the pistons and the cylinder walls, inject a small amount of grease into the gap. After cleaning each piston, take a small brush and remove all traces of grease and carbon deposits from the gap, then wipe everything with a clean rag.
24. Inspect the mating surfaces of the cylinder block/crankcase and cylinder head for scoring, deep scratches and other damage. If they are minor, they can be carefully removed with a file. If they are large, the only alternative to replacement is mechanical treatment. If there is a suspicion of deformation of the mating surface of the cylinder head (under the gasket), check this surface with a ruler. If necessary, please contact chapter 2D.
25. Thoroughly clean the threads of the holes for the cylinder head mounting bolts in the cylinder block. Make sure the bolts turn freely and that all traces of oil and water have been removed from each bolt hole.
Selecting a gasket
26. Ensure that the timing belt is removed from the high-pressure fuel pump sprocket, then rotate the crankshaft until pistons #1 and #4 are at TDC. Install a dial indicator on the cylinder block and reset the dial by moving the plunger to the mating surface of the block. Move the plunger to the center of piston No. 1, then slowly rotate the crankshaft back and forth until the piston passes through the TDC position, monitoring the highest reading on the indicator scale. Write down this reading.
27. Repeat this procedure on piston No. 4, then turn the crankshaft half a turn (180°) and repeat the procedure on pistons No. 2 and 3 (figure 13.27).
Figure 13.27 Measuring piston protrusion
28. If there is no dial indicator, the piston protrusion can be measured using a ruler and a fan-shaped feeler gauge or using a caliper. However, this is less accurate and therefore not recommended.
29. Record the greatest piston protrusion value and use it to select the correct cylinder head gasket from the following table. Grooves or holes in the corner of the gasket are used to identify the thickness. The grooves or holes near the centerline of the gasket indicate the power and type of engine and have no significance in determining the thickness of the gasket (figure 13.29).
Figure 13.29. Identification grooves for cylinder head gasket thickness (A). Also note the identification grooves for displacement and engine type (B)
Piston protrusion
- 0.56 - 0.67 mm
- 0.68 - 0.71 mm
- 0.79 - 0.75 mm
- 0.76 - 0.79 mm
- 0.80 - 0.83 mm
Gasket identification
- 1 groove
- 9 grooves
- 3 grooves
- 4 grooves
- 5 slots
Inspection of cylinder head bolts
30. On XUD engines, different types of cylinder head bolts were used during assembly—hex-head and Torx-head. When working on an engine equipped with earlier hex-head bolts, these bolts should be replaced with the latest Torx-head bolts after they have been removed. Torx bolts are available in two variations. One version has a guide tip at the base of the thread, while the other version does not have a tip. Torx bolts may be reused as long as their length does not exceed the values specified below. Please note that if a bolt is reworked to accommodate the gasket (see item 33), a new bolt will be required when the cylinder head is finally installed.
31. Measure the length of each bolt from the base of the head to the end of the bolt (or the end of the guide tip) (figure 13.31). Compare the results with the values shown in the following table to determine if the bolts and spacers need to be replaced.
Figure 13.31. Measure the length of the bolt to determine if replacement is required
Note: Due to the stresses that occur in the cylinder head bolts, it is strongly recommended that they be replaced, regardless of their external condition.
Bolt length — Action required
Bolts without guide tip:
- Less than 131.5 mm - Reuse bolts/spacers
- More than 131.5 mm - Replace bolts/spacers
Guide Pin Bolts:
- Less than 135.5 mm - Reuse bolts/spacers
- Over 135.5 mm - Replace bolts/spacers
Installation
32. Turn the crankshaft clockwise (when viewed from the timing belt side) so that pistons No. 1 and 4 pass the bottom dead center (BDC) and begin to rise, and then position them in the middle of the upward stroke. Pistons #2 and #3 will also be in the middle of their stroke, but on a downward stroke.
33. Correctly install the gasket onto the cylinder block so that the identification grooves or holes are located on the flywheel/washer side of the engine. Make sure the locating pin is in place at the timing belt end of the cylinder block. Please note that since there is only one dowel pin, the gasket may become displaced when installing the cylinder head (due to the engine tilt), especially when the cylinder head is installed on the engine without removing it from the vehicle. In the worst case, pistons and/or valves can hit the gasket, causing engine damage. To avoid this problem, cut the head off the "old" cylinder head bolt and cut a slot in the end of the bolt so that the bolt can be turned with a screwdriver. Thread a bolt into one of the bolt holes on the flywheel end of the cylinder block, then position the gasket using the bolt and dowel pin as a guide. This will help hold the gasket in place when installing the cylinder head.
34. Lower the cylinder head onto the block.
35. Apply a small amount of grease to the threads and to the back of the cylinder head bolt heads. Peugeot/Citroen recommends using Molykote G Rapid Plus grease (can be purchased from a dealer). If the prescribed lubricant is not available, any good quality high temperature lubricant can be used.
36. Carefully insert each bolt with the corresponding spacer (convex side up, if applicable) into the corresponding hole (don't let them fall) and screw them in with just the force of your hand. If applicable, after installing three or four bolts, to properly align the cylinder head, remove the modified bolt installed in step. 33, and screw a new bolt in its place.
37. Working gradually and in the prescribed sequence, using a torque wrench and a suitable socket, tighten the cylinder head bolts to the prescribed torque as per stage 1 (figure 13.37).
Figure 13.37. Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
38. After tightening all bolts according to stage 1, working again in the same sequence, tighten each bolt to the specified torque according to stage 2. Finally, tighten the bolts to the specified angle according to stage 3. To ensure accuracy, it is recommended to use a protractor at this stage of tightening.
39. The rest of the installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal, taking into account the following points:
- a) Route the electrical wiring correctly and securely connect the corresponding electrical connectors.
- b) Connect the coolant hoses correctly and tighten the corresponding clamps securely.
- c) Connect all vacuum/vent hoses correctly.
- d) Install the cylinder head cover as described in paragraph 4.
- d) Connect the exhaust system to the manifold, install the air filter housing and air ducts and adjust the accelerator cable as described in chapter 4B. If the manifolds were removed, install them as described in chapter 4B.
- e) Fill the cooling system as described in chapter 1B.
- g) Connect the battery and bleed the fuel system as described in chapter 4B.
